The Pivotal Role of Peptides in Skincare Manufacturing Today
J Sikora, G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc.
Every decade has its particular “star technologies”; historic breakthroughs that can be credited for fueling the growth and advancement of our beloved and ever-evolving skincare industry. In the eighties, we heralded the birth of AHA’s to accelerate our collective, ever-slowing, cell renewal process. The popularity of fruity acids resounded globally, as skincare obsessive’s around the globe eagerly celebrated the arrival of younger, fresher-looking skin. In the nineties, industry enthusiasts coveted new, super-potent wrinkle-fighting ingredients which sourced a fresh breed of mega anti-oxidants, including Co-Q10 and Idebenone, a highly efficacious, skin regenerative, free radical warrior.
By the late nineties and into the new millennium, our industry began to re-focus its attention and resources on two highly diverse fronts, one natural…the other synthetic. On the natural end of things, cosmetic formulators began touting the amazing preventative and restorative powers of mega-potent food and berry extracts: including Polyphenols (Resveratrol), Pomegranate Extract, Acai Berry, Blueberries and Mangosteen.
![iStock_red grapes Small[1] Resveratrol has proven to be one of the most highly sought after natural anti-oxidants in formulations today.](http://gscosmeceuticalusainc.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/istock_red-grapes-small11.jpg?w=150&h=100)
Resveratrol has proven to be one of the most highly sought after natural anti-oxidants in formulations today.
The broad endorsement of Peptide Technology has been striking. It is not simply cosmetic researchers, formulators and beauty editors who have become modern evangelists for Peptides, it is Dermatologists as well.
Indeed, a recent article in CosmeticDesign.com confirms that these trained physicians…“see the potential for bioactive peptide ingredients in cosmetics as ‘immense’ due to their (Peptides) highly targeted and flexible nature”.1
So, what are peptides exactly… and, why have so many new breakthrough products released over the past decade been formulated and manufactured to showcase these sophisticated anti-aging chemicals?
According to a study led by the Kline Group, a leading beauty industry research firm; “Peptides are anti-aging focused chemicals, synthetics, which claim to bring pharmaceutical strength technology to non-prescription products.” “In essence, they are pharma grade anti-aging ingredients packed into ”2 The Kline Group believes “that the global anti-aging phenomenon has been the key driving force behind the enormous growth in the skin care segment in recent years, which in turn has led to the development of a plethora of innovative chemicals, including a virtual smorgasbord of Peptides for skincare innovators to choose from”.3

The anti-aging trend was the catalyst for the development of Peptides; sophisticated chemicals offering targeted anti-aging solutions.
Others define Peptides in much more simplistic ways. Peptides function as messengers in the skin, allowing the epidermis and dermis to communicate more efficiently. This is important, because one of the key effects of aging is reduced communication within the skin, resulting in decreased collagen production and an aggregation of degraded elastin fibers. Decreased collagen production (less supportive, firming fibers), coupled with degraded elastin (diminished skin elasticity and flexibility) combine exponentially to produce classic visible signs of aging; including thinner skin, fine and deep wrinkles, sagging and flaccidity and overall loss of skin ‘tone’.
So, how do peptides work to correct these aging symptoms? There are twenty different amino acids in the human body and these acids can form in a variety of different combinations and sequences (just like the letters in words and sentences). When a chain of amino acids is over fifty acids long, it is normally called a protein, however when a chain contains less than 50 amino acids, it is considered a peptide. So, a peptide is really a ‘portion’, or a ‘building block’ of a protein. An abbreviated protein of sorts!The great news is that these ‘mini or abbreviated proteins’ (Peptides) can be created in lab to be highly active, influential molecules, which can direct the cells in our body to take specific actions. While there are many different types of peptides, those that are used in skincare are synthetically engineered to enter the cells of the skin and remain intact. Once in the skin, they are able to communicate and direct the skin cells to behave in a certain way. For example, they can direct the cells to produce new healthy collagen and/or elastin fibers…causing the epidermis to appear thicker, smoother and younger! This helps to explain why Peptide Technology is ultra desirable and can command significantly higher prices, when embedded into your standard anti-aging formulations.
Current research indicates that the popularity of Peptides is due in part, to

Matrixyl, a favorite of anti-aging chemists, shows statistically significant reduction in 'wrinkle depth'.
the fact that these molecules can be “tinkered with” or “customized” fairly easily. For example, there are several Peptides out there that have been designed to ‘tell’ the skin to produce more collagen and hyaluronic acid. The most famous of the anti-aging Peptides is one with an INCI name of Palmitoyl Pentapeptide; but commonly known as Matrixyl. Originally developed for use on stretch marks, Matrixyl has also been used to promote more rapid healing of skin wounds. Manufacturers of formulas containing this Peptide claim statistically significant improvements in the reduction of deep wrinkles and the disappearance of small and fine wrinkles.
Then there are the peptides which are positioned as topical alternatives to Botox™. Consider Acetyl Hexapeptide (INCI), which many know as Argireline. By claiming to relax certain types of facial wrinkles by blocking the release of neurotransmitters, this trendy anti-aging Peptide has spearheaded the development of an entirely new category of Peptides
known as “Neuropeptides”. A clinical study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science reported that when used at a 10% concentration level, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 actually reduced wrinkle depth by up to 30 percent—after 30 days of continuous use. And to top that off, there is clinical evidence that this small Peptide may even deter wrinkles from forming in the first place! Imagine that! While not Botox™ by any stretch of the imagination, one must admit that this designer chemical can be viewed as a formidable opponent to our most obvious sign of aging: The Wrinkle!
But, let’s not stop there… Excited chemists decided to offer Argireline a synergistic soul mate (of sorts) to partner with on tough anti-aging jobs.
Hence, the birth of Leuphasyl®, or Pentapeptide-3 (INCI). Working hand-in-peptide with Argireline, the two custom chemicals collaborate perfectly to reduce the depth of wrinkles on the face, especially in the forehead area and around the eyes, where we need it the most.
Speaking of necessity… collective need and strong global market demand remain the mothers of invention for the skincare industry. Concerns by millions of image conscious Baby Boomers and Post-Boomers, (as well as a solid segment of Generation X’ers seeking precautionary anti-aging treatments) led Cosmetic Researchers to design yet another highly specialized peptide known as Hexapeptide-10 (INCI). This breakthrough Peptide was engineered to improve cell adhesion and as a result, reduce the loss of skin firmness (sagging). Also known as ‘Serilesine’ this Peptide multi-tasks effectively, to concurrently reduce dryness and yellowing of skin tone.

Industry insiders predict that a virtual parade of these lab-engineered genies will continue to inspire for years to come.
Peptide research is advancing at breathtaking speed. Few doubt that these highly specialized synthetic proteins will cease to be the ‘it factor’ of cosmetic compounding any time soon. Industry insiders predict that a virtual parade of these lab-engineered genies will continue to inspire, enrich an influence the thinking and methodologies of skincare manufacturers for decades to come.
Consider the possibilities… While today, cutting-edge, anti-wrinkle Peptides like (Syn®-Ake) are lab-engineered to mimic the effects of Viper Snakes… the Peptides of the future could have even broader and considerably more inventive applications.
In fact, researchers from the Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory are currently in the early stages of work on a new Peptide-based technology to replace dermal filler injections and cosmetic surgery procedures. They believe that an injectable peptide could be created to induce growth of fat under the skin. This would allow us to literally plump-up our own aging skin with the body’s own fat, indigenous to the skin itself!4
And what, you may ask; does the scientific community really think about this explosive technology that has gracefully commandeered centre stage over the past decade?
At G.S. Cosmeceutical, a San Francisco Bay Area custom-contract- manufacturer of skincare and other cosmeceutical products, Owner and Chief Science Officer Gogi Sangha weighs in on the subject, pondering the timeless connection and inherent synergism between beauty and science, stating:
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- CosmeticDesign.com: Katie Bird, March 24, 2009 Issue
- CosmeticDesign.com; Simon Pittman, June 17, 2009 Issue
- CosmeticDesign.com; Simon Pittman, June 17, 2009 Issue
- CosmeticDesign.com; Katie Bird, March 4, 2009 Issue
Filed under: Contract Manufacturing, Cosmeceutical Manufacturing, Cosmetic Chemistry and Formulation, Cosmetics, Health and Wellness, OTC Drug Manufacturing, Peptides, Personal Care Products, Skincare Technology, Uncategorized | Leave a Comment »
![iStock_products[1] Alpha Hydroxy based products, popular in the eighties and nineties, remain very popular today.](http://gscosmeceuticalusainc.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/istock_products1.jpg?w=150&h=99)

![iStock_older skin Small[1] Classic signs of both intrinsic and photo-aging: loss of firmness, wrinkles and sagging.](http://gscosmeceuticalusainc.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/istock_older-skin-small1.jpg?w=100&h=150)







![iStock_currency Small[1] iStock_currency Small[1]](http://gscosmeceuticalusainc.files.wordpress.com/2009/07/istock_currency-small1.jpg?w=150&h=102)





We’re gaining the opportunity to work with a variety of clients that surpasses anything we’ve seen to date. 

While industry competitors have been reducing their spend on new projects and investments, ![iStock_hand blocking sun Small[1] iStock_hand blocking sun Small[1]](http://gscosmeceuticalusainc.files.wordpress.com/2009/05/istock_hand-blocking-sun-small1.jpg?w=468)
Director of Education for a number of cosmetic companies. But, this year seemed different. This year the subject felt more threatening…more dangerous…more likely to affect those that I loved and cared about, in a very real way.
speaking with my super-talented team of GSC colleagues and formulators, who have successfully formulated and manufactured a number of ground-breaking SPF technologies available on the market today. My goal was to learn about specific gains in the technology war being waged against UV light damage and associated Skin Cancer risks. Here is what I learned:
refract damaging UV light away from the skin). What a relief, because the older chemical-based sunscreen formulas had become saddled with so much cynicism that it was difficult to separate their truly positive attributes from the negative allegations out there. These included accusations that the chemical screens contained carcinogenic raw materials, demonstrated photo-instability… and had a tendency to “over-heat” the skin. Conversely, the new natural, micronized oxides received adoration and praise, and the highest of marks regarding their efficacy, photo-stability and perceived “cooling” effect on the skin. In fact, highly experienced cosmetic scientists, including my company’s CEO and Founder, Gogi Sangha, all rave about the “dispersion factor” that makes these new micronized oxides so attractive to use in SPF formulations. According to Gogi, new cosmetic emulsions which incorporate dispersed Titanium and Zinc Oxides result in better blended SPF formulations, capable of providing heightened levels of UV light protection. SCORE ONE against the ravages of Skin Cancer!
natural/organic or food-grade preservatives, gentle botanical extracts and state-of-the-art anti-oxidants, viable formulations are developed that allow us to protect our most cherished and vulnerable little ones. An extraordinarily important mission according to the American Cancer Society, given that three or more blistering sunburns during childhood can increase the risk of developing Melanoma. SCORE TWO against Melanoma!
one that will actually protect from both UVA and UVB rays. SPF monograph testing in the lab results in a rating for UVB level protection only, and as a result, is the SPF reflected often on product labels. However, some concerned OTC manufacturers make a point to list UVA protection on their labels. Thankfully, the FDA is currently working on new sun care packaging regulations that will help make SPF labeling easier to understand and much more transparent! Score three against our deadly foe!
However, the big advantage to the newest high-tech, mineral-based SPF formulas is that they tend to be more naturally resistant to water and perspiration. Add to that the ability of sophisticated OTC manufacturers like
Sangha, our Chief Scientific Officer and long-time Master Formulator, suggests a simple paradigm shift for sunscreen. “We have become much more astute about the role that environment plays in our overall health”. “We have developed good eating habits; working hard to include the four food groups into our daily diets.” “So”, asks Gogi, “why not take it to the next step by focusing on five daily food groups, making sunscreen the fifth dietary component for your skin?”
heartened by what I’ve learned, and have no doubts that as our best scientific minds find ways to conquer space and energy; they will also succeed in ultimately eradicating melanoma. I’m also incredibly proud to see just how far we (as an industry) have come in providing the public with sun protection solutions that really work. And yes, my GSC colleagues in their white lab coats have earned a new level of respect and admiration from me, for the many ways in which they work to advance the cause of sun protection and human longevity, one great sunscreen product at a time.